July/August - Celebrate Summer Basque Style!

Every summer thousands of people storm the medieval French village of Bayonne for the Fetes de Bayonne. (This year the Fetes, which means party in French, runs from July 28-August 1).  Bayonne is located on the southwestern coast of France, just a short drive from Spain. Typically known for its outstanding chocolate, centuries old city walls, and fresh seafood, for the week of the Fetes de Bayonne it is famous for all night parties, runs with bulls, and seas of people wearing all white with red sashes and berets.  There are parades, concerts, regattas, a rugby game, and plenty of eating and drinking. For the adults, the night life is the biggest party.  Enjoy homemade sangria from street vendors and enjoy the huge street party that ensues.

And of course while you are there be sure to take time to stroll the historic streets and stop in a cafe for one of the world's best hot chocolates.

If you want some time away from the crowds and in the sun, head toward Anglet and Biarritz.  Only about an hour car ride away, these beach towns are international surfing locations and you may happen upon a surfing contest.


Biarritz was, and some say still is, the beach playground for the wealthy. The promenade along the beach is where women push their babies in old fashioned prams, and the fashionable go to be seen. It makes for some great people watching on your way down to the water. The Hotel du Palais once hosted England's monarchy for their summer holidays, and its five star status still makes it fit for a queen.

If you want to get in the mood for a great trip to Basque Country, try making some Gateau Basque, a delicious cookie-like cake with either a pastry creme or fruit filling.  

Gateau Basque

Makes 8 servings

2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1/4 cup sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3/4 to 1 cup thick cherry jam or an equal amount of vanilla pastry cream
1 egg beaten with a splash of water, for the glaze

Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt and keep at hand.

Working in a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or in a bowl with a hand mixer, beat the butter and both sugars together on medium speed for about 3 minutes, or until smooth. Add the egg and beat another 2 minutes or so, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. The mixture may look curdled, but that's OK. Add vanilla and mix for about a minute more. Then reduce the mixer speed to low and add the dry ingredients in two or three additions, mixing only until they're fully incorporated into the dough.
Place a large sheet of plastic wrap or wax paper on your work surface and put half of the very soft and sticky dough in the center of the sheet. Cover with another piece of plastic or wax paper, then roll the dough into a circle just a little larger than 8 inches in diameter. As you're rolling, turn the dough over and lift the plastic or paper frequently, so that you don't roll it into the dough and form creases. Repeat with the other half of the dough.
Put the dough on a cutting board or baking sheet and refrigerate it for about 3 hours or for up to 3 days.
When you're ready to assemble and bake the gateau, center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350. Generously butter a 2-inch high, 8-inch round cake pan.
Remove the layers from the refrigerator and let them rest on the counter for a couple of minutes before peeling away the plastic or paper. Fit one layer into the pan — if it breaks, just press the pieces together. If there's a little extra dough running up the sides of the pan, you can either fold it over the bottom layer or cut it so that it's even. Spoon some of the jam or pastry cream onto the dough, starting in the center of the cake and leaving one inch of dough bare around the border. Add more filling if you don't think it will squish out the sides when you press down on it with the top layer of dough. (I find that 3/4 cup is usually just the right amount, but if you're using a very thick jam, you might want a bit more.)
Moisten the bare ring of dough with a little water and then top with the second piece of dough, pressing down around the edges to seal it. If you'd like, you can work your finger between the top dough and the edge of the pan, so that you tuck the dough under a little. Because of the softness of the dough and the baking powder, even if you only press the layers together very lightly, they'll fuse as they bake. And, no matter how well you press them together, it seems inevitable that a little of the filling will escape.
Brush the top of the dough with the egg glaze and use the tips of the tines of a fork to etch a cross-hatch pattern across the top.
Bake the cake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the top is golden brown. Transfer the cake to a cooling rack and let it rest for 5 minutes before carefully running a blunt knife around the edges of the cake. Turn the cake over onto a cooling rack and then quickly and carefully invert it onto another rack so that it can cool to room temperature right side up.
Storing: Wrapped well, the jam-filled cake will keep for a day or so at room temperature. You can also keep the cream-filled cake overnight, but it will need to be refrigerated. However, because refrigeration can dry cakes, I think it's best to serve the cream-filled cake the day it is made.


What makes a gateau Basque so intriguing is that the cake has a clue as to what's baked inside. If filled with pastry cream, there's a crosshatch pattern on top. If filled with black cherry jam, another regional specialty, there's a Basque cross — a cross shaped like a rounded pinwheel — baked flat on top.

Big Travel for JULY

If you're thinking of leaving the good ol' US of A this month, here are some things to consider:

July is a Good Time to Travel To:

Galapagos Islands. 

The Galapagos are an archipelago of volcanic islands distributed around the equator in the Pacific Ocean,  west of continental Ecuador, of which they are a part. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and wildlife is its most notable feature. While it's not exactly convenient or necessarily cheap to get here (you have to fly into Quito and then take another 3 hr flight or join your cruise ship), you'll see the wildlife documented by Charles Darwin and protected by the islands' status as a national park and biological preserve.
Being nearly equal with the equator the sun is fierce in the Galapagos so you need a healthy coat of sunscreen regardless of the time of year you visit. From June to December southern trade winds bring cooler currents so that the highlands of the larger islands are kept green and lush, while the sea level islands and shorelines have little precipitation. Thus, June to December is generally called the dry season and is known for its blue skies and mid-day showers. Also due to the cooler water currents this is the best time to observe the ocean life, and it is especially wonderful for those who dive.
One of the best ways to see the islands is by Cruise. These aren't your Carnival style cruise ships, but rather most only hold a few hundred at most and are much smaller ships, able to provide a more personalized voyage.  If you want to stay on the islands, your choices surely won't include a Holiday Inn, but check out some options Here.

An All American JULY

With my open love affair with France it may surprise you to hear me say this: skip Bastille Day in Paris and enjoy 4th of July celebrations here in the States.  Bastille Day in Paris is sort of like St. Patrick's Day in Ireland - it sounds like loads of fun but in reality there isn't much celebration going on and pretty much everything is closed.  So instead of battling large crowds in the heat in Europe, pack a picnic dinner and get on the road and find your own slice of Americana.

For a historical Independence Day celebration check out the Bristol, Rhode Island 4th of July Parade which has been held since 1785 and is the oldest continuous Independence Day celebration in the United States.  It may only date back to 1973, but the Boston Pops Fireworks Spectacular held every year on the banks of the Charles is just as memorable.  This is the one time each year that you don't have to be a blue blood to see the fabulous Boston Pops.  Make sure you've got a seat by 9:30pm when the 1819 Overture is performed and you'll be all set for when the fireworks start at 10:30pm.

If you're not so much of a gourmet that you can enjoy good ol' American hot dog then be sure to check out Nathan's Annual 4th of July Hot Dog Eating Contest at Coney Island. 

If your pallet calls for more spice and you can brave the heat, check out the Annual Go 4th on the River in New Orleans to watch a fireworks display from dueling barges on the river while enjoying an oyster po'boy.  For those who dig fireworks with a drawl, here's a list of fun 4th celebrations in the South.

And if your 4th of July celebration will take you no further than your own backyard, you can always be a part of the patriotic celebration in our nation's capitol,  A Capitol Fourth, via radio or TV.

Hit the Water!

What better way to avoid the heat and mosquitoes than swimming? The quintessential summer activity. The obvious choice is the beach. But if you're not a fan of sand in the crack or can't afford the pricey beach hotels here are some options that may be lighter on the wallet and without the jellyfish:

Natural Springs

The Florida springs are likely one of the most overlooked attractions the Sunshine State has to offer. Maybe we locals like to keep it that way, but since most are run by the state park system the admission is cheap and the amenities are pretty good. Check out this listing of Florida springs.  Most spring parks offer camping, and if tubes and canoes can't be rented on site you'll find some road side stores renting the gear.  Of course you can also visit springs throughout the South, like in Alabama and Georgia.

Northeastern Lakes

Although summer is the high season for the New York/Vermont Lake Districts, the extra cost is well worth it.  When you visit the small towns dotting the coast of Lake George, NY, with their A-framed mini-cabins and lake side chalets you'll feel like you stepped back in time.  Rent a boat or kayak, or simply dive into the  crystal clear lake from one of the many public beaches. If you're a Southerner like myself  you won't last too long in the cold lake water, but not to worry as there are plenty of shops, parks, and nearby attractions to explore.  Work up a sweat on the obstacle course in the trees at Adirondack Extreme or visit The Sagamore Hotel for lunch overlooking the lake.  And no trip to Lake George could be complete without a cruise on the Minnehaha Steamboat. 
If you go a bit further north past Lake George you'll hit Lake Champlain, with New York on one side and Vermont on the other. It will be up to you whether you want to enjoy the lake in New York or Vermont. You'll be sure to find plenty of mom & pop accommodations along the lakes or you could find a place of your own to rent on Vacation Rentals By Owner.

JUNE

It's officially summer.  The kids are out of school, the grill is fired up, and you're sweating and coated in bug spray.  So where to have that great summer adventure we've all been looking forward to??

NEW ZEALAND!!!

June is wintertime for the Kiwis and it also happens to be the off-season for tourism, so it is a great time to visit! The average temperatures for June-August are lows in the upper 30's and highs in the upper 50's/low 60's.  Aside from the typical winter activities of skiing and snowboarding (which are excellent), there's also glacier hiking, aerial tours, shopping, wine tours, horseback treks, and of course, bungee jumping!

From June 25th-July 4th, Queenstowns hosts its annual Winter Festival, touted as winter's biggest party. The Festival includes:  on-mountain snow action, street parties, fireworks, live concerts, comedy, theatre and glitzy nights of glamour. You may even catch some famous winter Olympians practicing on the half-pipes! Queenstown Winter Festival


Check out Air New Zealand's website for cheap fairs and vacation specials at this time of year. Air New Zealand